Krakow, Cracovia, Cracow, however you want to spell it, was amazing. Christina had hyped it up so much though, that I actually had low expectations. In fact, I had low expectations all -around for everything Polish. It could never be as good as she had portrayed it, or at least, that was what I was still thinking whilst our little death-box came into intense turbulence while landing and nearly shaking off the runway into Katowice. We survived the landing. We took a bus-train combo into the main town, then from Katowice into Krakow. The train took two-and-a-half hours. We could have been there quicker for a couple of more złoty, and for a while I regretted that. But the train ride was peaceful. The clacking of the train and the smell of the countryside induced me into mediation. When the train stopped, so did the sounds. A peaceful silence made me doublethink the ideals of city-life. Passing coal trains and endless fields of green, yellow, purple and magenta gave me a sense of what "natural resources" really means. the train seemed to arbitrarily slow down at points and stop randomly, but it was clean and comfortable, despite the obvious vintage of the train. In comparison to the German train experience: marble platforms, bustling train stations with national chains and convenience, efficient ticket machines and bi- tri- quad- lingual train personnel, the Polish trains (PKP) was welcome. After creeping into Krakow Glówny, we were greeted by Aga and Vinzenz (an amazing Bavarian-Polish couple). They took good care of us, showing us around the city, and letting us into their cozy city. Our hostel was a rustic affair: creaky wooden floors, vaulted ceilings with old paint, fixed cabinets and benches in a dinette that had probably been there since the building was erected. There were posters in English advertising all of the trips available, and plenty of cards for every possible club or restaurant. But the only part that felt tacky of the whole place were the floors. And the flurry of guests in the morning left cornflakes and used dishes all over the kitchenette, and massive puddles of water all over the bathroom floors. But all in all, it was a good stay and experience.... I guess except the second night when eagerly skipped three steps to ascend into my top-bunk, only to find a French girl occupying it. She screamed, I yelped and left an apology for the next morning (anybody in the room could have told me somebody was in my bed then, but I guess they found it more funny to see what would happen).
But fun aside, most of the town's charm is reflected in the churches and buildings. There is not some over-reaching theme I could grab out of the rows of buildings which had grown to become embassies, restaurants, beer gardens or cafes (of which, I was informed over 1,000 pepper the old city). Some buildings are baroque, some neo-classical or gothic or or or... you get the point. Most of the old city is immaculately restored, and the further out one goes, the more raw and bohemian the city becomes. But that does not detract from the charm (or cafes). And each cafe or stube we went into seemed to have an individual theme or style. The city has so many personalities, none of which can be found or reflected in any of the many cookie-cutter Western-European cities (I don't remember seeing H&M, Starbucks or MacDonald’s, except in an indoor mall on the outskirts of the old city).
The individuality seeps into the food as well. While i don't disillusion myself into thinking that every Polish person devours zupa Ziemniaczana (potato soup) Perogi, Bigos, Kiełbasa (the strikethrough L is pronounced like a w) everyday, I know that each restaurant probably has their own taste to each dish. The food was not complicated, but it was rich, satisfying, plentiful, and cheap! 18 złoty (about $5.50) netted a nice plate of healthy food at an a more upscale looking place, and a 500ml beer. Do not let the word healthy misguide you though, this was Polish healthy, and still managed to satisfy and fulfill. In fact, every day in Krakow was a banquet, and every meal was a feast (props to Grandpa for that phrase). Another meal I indulged in this potato soup and Perogi, topped off with another 500ml this meal was a bit more expensive at 20 złoty. I have rambled on too long without talking about the beer in Poland. Everywhere in Krakow there was one logical choice of beer, Ziwiec. If I had to describe the beer, it would be in-between a Belgian Blonde and a Czech Pilsner. It was smooth like a blonde, without being too bitter. The head and clarity though, tended more to the Pilsner. Overall it is one of the most satisfying and quenching beers I have ever had. It definitely shot up to the top favorites. Unfortunately, it is one of those beers you buy out of a bottle to chase the taste of the keg-variant, but never quite attain the satisfaction as when it comes through a tap.
The university campus has buildings scattered throughout the old town. They were not all built at the same time, and the styles definitely give away their age. But each entity is still intact and immaculate. The entire city is surrounded by a greenbelt, which is where the old city wall used to protect against invasions (of which there were very few, as I have been informed). Krakow would definitely be a beautiful city to study in, at least in spring and summer (after this last German winter, I am not convinced Europe is hospitable to my Californian conceptions of winter).
The Wawel castle, on the hill in the old city, is just as individualistic as the city. The patchwork of a building has obviously been added to and modified a few times in the last couple of centuries. The cathedral that accompanies the castle is also very similar. Each king (or something like that) apparently had his own shrine. They felt the need to build them even more grandiose than the last. While we did not go into that church, we did go into another few in the old town. The one that impressed me the most, I cannot remember the name of any more. But the cathedral had a gothic interior. The large ceilings, instead of being gray like I am used to in churches, was painted a deep blue, and had stars and other symbolism. It was beautiful. And each shrine within the church had it’s own theme, and obviously was not built to be in coordination with the other surrounding shrines. The woodwork on the pulpits and pews has been all very carefully carved out with dragons, serpents, angels and the likes. The church was vibrant, and it was obvious that it was not built under contract, but with love and a true Samaritans for the church.